Porrino to Arcade
Diego dropped us off in town to rejoin the Way and, lo and behold, the number of pilgrims had swelled at least twentyfold, including a group led by a spirited flag-bearer.
It was wonderful to see young and old, families, friends, sweethearts, all with a single purpose.
The climb up the first hill began at the 5km mark - slow and steady, traced across rural vistas up to 235m. It stretched on for nearly five kilometres. Descending from the 12km mark was steep, very steep. my walking stick was worth its weight in gold. One misstep, one trip on an exposed root could have ended my Camino.
Reaching the town of Redondela was such a relief. Its medieval charm, especially 16th century Casa da Torre (now the pilgrim hostel), welcomed us like an old friend.
I recharged with an orange juice and beef quesadillas (packed two of the four - they were very moreish) at a cafe restaurant before forging on.
After the second, rather treacherous climb, out of the blue, something glistened through the trees on my left - it was the sunlight bouncing off a delicate sliver of the Atlantic that hugs Arcade (pronounced Ar-ca-day), a small, friendly town.
Arcade is one of those hidden Camino gems where pilgrim friends can be found gathered around fresh seafood and warm hospitality - a perfect prelude to their next stop.
That night, said friends Deb, Rob, Rebekah and I feasted on Arcade oysters, mussels, oysters, calamari and roasted Padron peppers.
Bed came later than expected - Spaniards and their 8pm dinner tradition!
I'm looking forward to tomorrow - a short walk to Pontevedra.
Arcade to Pontevedra
It is Wednesday, August 20. All things being equal, I will walk into Santiago de Compostela this Saturday.
Like Porriño and Arcade, Pontevedra is located in the autonomous community of Galicia, in Northwest Spain.
It took exactly three hours to walk the 13 kilometres to Pontevedra, with only one climb worth a mention.
I strolled into this beautiful city just after 11am and had about three hours to kill.
Found a cafe, though they would not take lunch orders until 2pm - so I settled for a beer that came with complimentary baguette sandwiches filled with ham and cheese. Perfect.
After checking in and enjoying a refreshing shower, I explored the city. I adored the Virgen de la Peregrina church - its deeply symbolic connection to the Way of Saint James (Tiago) is felt in every scallop shell-shaped chamber and curved facade.
I visited the ruins of San Domingos, whose medieval bones tell a long story of faith and devotion. I also walked past to admire the shut Basilica of Santa Maria a Maior - its Gothic grandeur quietly anchoring the old city.
That evening, dinner with the girls and another new friend, Mikaela, at a Mexican restaurant stretched well past 11pm. Learning of my Thai ties, Mikaela - who works in Bangkok in a UN aids program, had lots to ask and talk about. Another good day.
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