Walk with me

Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis Keen to beat the afternoon heat for this fairly long 21.2km walk, I left the hotel at 7.20am, grateful it offered breakfast from 6.30am. It was lovely to begin with a wander through Pontevedra's ancient streets as the town slept soundly and dawn was still a while away before settling into pleasant countryside, with the occasional stretch along busier roads. There was only one climb of note - a gentle but steady 3km stretch that took me to 126m. It hardly took very much out of me. All up, less than five hours - 12.10pm - brought me from charming Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis along the Way. Caldas de Reis has been famed since Roman times for its hot springs - from which it gets its name - and you can still feel that heritage in the air. I rewarded myself with a nicely chilled vino blanco and a complimentary slice of Spanish omelette at the taberna beside my hotel - a rather grand old building. A soothing massage in the evening worked wonders, after whic...

Porrino to Arcade Diego dropped us off in town to rejoin the Way and, lo and behold, the number of pilgrims had swelled at least twentyfold, including a group led by a spirited flag-bearer. It was wonderful to see young and old, families, friends, sweethearts, all with a single purpose. The climb up the first hill began at the 5km mark - slow and steady, traced across rural vistas up to 235m. It stretched on for nearly five kilometres. Descending from the 12km mark was steep, very steep. my walking stick was worth its weight in gold. One misstep, one trip on an exposed root could have ended my Camino. Reaching the town of Redondela was such a relief. Its medieval charm, especially 16th century Casa da Torre (now the pilgrim hostel), welcomed us like an old friend. I recharged with an orange juice and beef quesadillas (packed two of the four - they were very moreish) at a cafe restaurant before forging on. After the second, rather treacherous climb, out of the blue, something glistene...

Rubiães to Porrino I returned to Rubiães to continue the walk towards Valença, a gentle 16.2km day with one climb up to 220m. The path wound through villages that gradually gave way to more urban surrounds as I approached Valença. Every day brings another opportunity to catch up with now-familiar faces, exchange a greeting and wave goodbye for now. I stopped at a cafe for fresh orange juice and another eye-popping sandwich filled with jamon and cheese before reaching my last Portuguese bed on the Way. Being Sunday, Valença was almost deserted, the streets quiet. The highlight was my foot bath and body massage organised by the hotel. Manuela, a petite, attractive woman, worked out every knot in my back and calmed my aching legs. Best massage ever. Dinner that evening was at a restaurant fronting the street. Grilled pork, sauteed cabbage and a mountain of hardly crunchy fries I barely touched. Then an early night. The next morning, I crossed into Tui in Spain, via the metal bridge spann...

Days four-six - Friday 15 August - Balugães-Ponte de Lima-Rubiães The guidebook wasn't wrong. The trail from Balugães was stunning - mountains, cool forests, foot-friendly trails. I loved every minute of the 18+km walk. Ponte de Lima - a gentle, beautiful town - welcomed me in the early afternoon with an unexpected calm. It didn't buzz with international tourists like Porto did, but its charms feel all the more authentic for it. I arrived from Bulagães on a serendipitous note - the feast day of the Assumption, a public holiday in Portugal. My path into Portugal's oldest town was through an enchanting Avenue of Trees alongside the Lima River and there, where the plane trees ended, was my home for the night, facing a fascinating market. Oh, for the want of more baggage space - I could easily have loaded myself with delicious olive oil, sausages, condiments, and stunning rugs begging to be bought. Dinner was a local favourite - meat and sausage slapped between a bun and smot...

Day 2 - Arcos to Barcelos I awoke hoping to find the local church open after hearing the bells. But it was shut tight. After 20 minutes of hopeful rattling and checking out all the doors, I conceded the sleepy hamlet of Arcos and set off, letting the cool air - and the promise of fresh countryside - carry me forward. Oh, and I had my first pastel da nata from the local café - divine - as I was leaving town. Nothing quite prepares one (or me, at least) for the vast open fields beyond Arcos- waves of corn stretching out under a relentless sun, the thick earthy scent of dung fertiliser drifting on the breeze. Every step felt both grounded and exposed. Mid-morning, and stinking hot, I took the guidebook's advice and stopped at Pedra Furada, a family-run cafe/restaurant right on the Way. It is known among pilgrims and locals for its warm hospitality and traditional fare. It wasn't quite official lunchtime, and all I craved was a soup. But had to settle for a cheese toastie, lemon-i...

Day 0 - Monday August 11: The stage is set Tomorrow I begin my solo self-guided Portuguese Central cammino from Porto to Santiago. Today was about soaking in Porto's charms and quirks. Armed with my brand-new walking sticks (because clearly I mean business) I wandered the city's hilly cobbled streets and narrow lanes. I stepped inside the Igrega da Santissima Trindade, marvelling at its quiet grandeur, and proudly got my Credencial stamped - the first of many to come. Lunch was a dreamy plate of Arroz de Marisco - rice in a seafood broth brimming with prawns, fish and shellfish - and a glass of white wine. The kind of meal that makes you want to linger a little longer. Then, like a true bookworm on a mission, I set out for Livraria Lello, one of the world's most beautiful bookshops and supposedly an inspiration for Harry Potter. The queue was enough to make even the most devoted reader reconsider their life choices, so I cleverly booked a timed entry for the evening. Ye...