Walk With Me - Porto to Santiago de Compostela

Rubiães to Porrino I returned to Rubiães to continue the walk towards Valença, a gentle 16.2km day with one climb up to 220m. The path wound through villages that gradually gave way to more urban surrounds as I approached Valença. Every day brings another opportunity to catch up with now-familiar faces, exchange a greeting and wave goodbye for now. I stopped at a cafe for fresh orange juice and another eye-popping sandwich filled with jamon and cheese before reaching my last Portuguese bed on the Way. Being Sunday, Valença was almost deserted, the streets quiet. The highlight was my foot bath and body massage organised by the hotel. Manuela, a petite, attractive woman, worked out every knot in my back and calmed my aching legs. Best massage ever. Dinner that evening was at a restaurant fronting the street. Grilled pork, sauteed cabbage and a mountain of hardly crunchy fries I barely touched. Then an early night. The next morning, I crossed into Tui in Spain, via the metal bridge spanning the River Minho but not before I explored Valença's old fortress, a solid reminder of times past, standing impressively intact. I have found the Portuguese people to be gentle and friendly, always taking a moment to call out "bom dia" as you cross paths. Life feels simple here. I loved the contrast - the quiet hamlets, Porto's lively modern edge in harmony with ancient buildings, and the old-world spendour of Ponte de Lima. From Tui, with its grand cathedral (charging pilgrims three euros for entry still felt a bit cheeky), the walk to Porriño was the most relaxing yet - fields and forests, no heart-thumping climbs. I took the Camino Complementario to avoid the industrial sprawl and was rewarded with greenery and calm. That night's stay was at a family-run bed and breakfast, where son Diego provided the entertainment. He had us all laughing, especially new friends Debbie and Robbyn. Robbyn had planned to walk the Camino but was sidelined by a foot injury, so sightseeing while her best mate walked became her consolation prize. Together, and with Diego's antics, they and Irish pilgrim Rebekah turned the evening into a riot of stories and laughter. Tomorrow, my walk to Arcade promises two steep climbs, the first over five kilometres. A sobering thought to take to bed with me.

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